With fur being the big thing this winter and all the rage, it is essential that you know how to indentify the real thing when you come across it. Generally the rule about vintage is if it has reached the grand old age of thirty years then it is considered a vintage item. Although nowadays some people will class things from several years ago as vintage - it's not, it's retro. It's also retro if it's trying to look vintage.
1. One of the first things you need to do is identify the species of fur you are looking at. This will give you a clue as to how old the item is, as we all know and rightly so some species are endangered because of their fur culling and hunting ethics and so cannot be now used to make friviolus fashion items. This is commendable and totally the right way to go about things for the future and generations to come. However this doesn't solve what to do with all those old vintage furs that are still out there. Do they get burnt and wasted or used and appreciated? Everyone has their own opinion on this, and no one is right or wrong - it's still a matter of hot debate between the best of friends.
Ok, some furs went in trends some were always elitest. You can as a rule of thumb tell a real fur from a faux fur by it's feel. This is something you have to do for yourself with practice. You have to stroke real fur and faux to get to know the difference. It's not that hard once you've been stroking a few coats believe me. The oils in the real fur are still there and it will feel soft, silky and luxurious. The faux fur, although getting better still doesn't have that absolute snuggle me and love me forever feel to it yet. Nearly but not quite.
To add with a little help - there is also a smell. Real fur will have at some point in it's life have been looked after and introduced to moth balls. They leave a soft lingering smell in the lining. Sniff around the pockets and neckline where they would have been stored or hung.
2. Look for a label. Sounds easy enough. But real fur is still sold, so you have to know which stores still sell furs. Chances are that you will come across an old label that you've never heard of before. This could mean that it's from an old store - as they change their names over the years. Knowledge of this and from the era of coat you are sourcing helps. Gen up on what it is you are looking for if it is a specific make, style or era. Knowledge is power.
Also look for initals sewn in. Often furs were made to order in select fashion houses. Remember years ago only the rich could afford real fur. Usually the woman had her initals sewn in as part of the service.
Also if the label says wash at such and such degrees - it's faux. Real fur should never be washed only dry cleaned at a specialists.
3. Know your eras and their styles. Look and research a certain era of coat. 1970's and 1960's furs will be a totally different cut to a 1930's 1940's coat. For example in the 1950's the coats were often shorter sleeved, called a bracelet cut - so the lady could show off her diamonds as well just for that extra money sniffing effect. In the 1940's coats tended to be more long sleeved. It all depends on what you are looking for. The answer here is research, research, research!
4. Look for sand. Evidence of sand tells you it is old straight away. Feel the weight. A real fur naturally will be slightly heavier than a faux fur due to the hide. Especially if it is vintage. Years ago in some they used to place sand in the lining of the coat to help combat damp and weight it's hang. It's also to do with the process of the furrier.
5. Look at the fur in a good light. Seems obvious right, but faux fur is manufactured. It will be perfect and often a repeat pattern. Think about it - it's a mass produced product right. Real fur like us is made with imperfections. Patterns and colouring will be random. Simples.
If you want to take a magnifying glass along and look at the individual hairs. A faux fur will have the same couration all the way along on each one, a real fur will be individual. Try it and see.
6. If in doubt, here's one my Granny taught me. Take a pin with you, get a single hair folicule and pierce it with the pin. I'm serious. If the pin passes through easily it's fake, if it resists and is difficult it's real.
Another one is if they allow you to, you can ask to snip a very small piece of the fur from under the collar, on the inside or once you have purchased it, if you love the coat for itself. Hold the snipped fur to a naked flame in a pair of tweezers. The faux fur is made from synthetic plastic it will smoulder, then burn with a chemical smell. Real fur will smell like your own hair when it get's caught in the hairdryer and create a clumped smouldering ball. Please though, remember to do this test away from the rest of the fur item so it doesn't all go up in flames!!
7. Remember real fur will be attached to a hide, faux fur won't. Check the lining of the coat if in doubt. Also if it has a head and a tail, feet even - more than likely it's a real pelt.
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